Who

Masayoshi Takayama is the man behind Masa, the miniscule, stratospherically-expensive sushi temple in the Time Warner Center.

Backstory

Tayakama has come a long way: His first restaurant job consisted of scrubbing toilets at a Tokyo sushi bar. He made his name at Ginza Sushiko, a tiny, celeb-packed sushi den on the second floor of a strip-mall in Beverly Hills that for years was one of the most expensive restaurants in the U.S. In 2003, Takayama was approached by chef and friend Thomas Keller, who suggested he take Masa to a grander space, namely New York's Time Warner Center, where Keller planned to open a restaurant himself. Takayama took his advice and in 2004 he shuttered his LA eatery, packed up his knives and clogs, and decamped to New York. His tiny venue—just 10 seats at the sushi bar, 26 seats in the dining room—immediately generated buzz for the insanely good sushi and insanely high prices. Bar Masa, Takayama's less-rarified spot, is located next door.

Of note

Masa is New York's priciest restaurant—even before tax, tip, or booze, it will run you at least $400 a head. What are you paying for? Well, for one, the freshest fish in New York. Takayama's Tokyo-based fish expert buys the fish at Tokyo's famed Tsukiji Fish Market and then rushes to Narita airport to put the fish on JAL Flight 006 to New York; as soon as the fish clears customs, a van brings the fish to the restaurant and it's on the table for dinner. (It's been said it takes 16 hours from sea to table—it's more like 20, but still.)

So is it worth it? Critics seem to think so: "Masa engineers discrete moments of pure elation," rhapsodized the Times' Frank Bruni in his four-star review. (It's one of just five restaurants with the top rating.) Customers who actually have to pay for their meals aren't quite so sure. But if you do go ahead and splurge, be sure to leave the menu entirely in Takayama's hands. And make sure you allocate enough time for the meal (three hours or more) and sit at the hinoki wood bar which Masa-san's staff painstakingly sands every evening, and not at one of the tables. (You'll get see the sushi master in action.) Get there early, too. Masa has a rep for occasionally skipping out on later diners.

Personal

Takayama is divorced and has three grown children. In his spare time, he's an enthusiastic potter—he sculpted Masa's plates and sake cups himself. He's also an avid marathon runner. His top finish: 4 hours, 50 minutes.

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